I can't speak to the longevity of the newer RAM clutch, but I experience none of the other issues that sometimes require adjustments other than installing the slightly longer clutch pushrod that MG Cycle carries. With varying success, but none are an easier pull than the RAM set up. I have arthritis in my hands and have experimented with 3 different hydraulic set ups on early Tonti's If lightness at the lever as well as the quicker revving are strong selling points for you, it is the better option. That's what I put in my Eldo last year after installing the SD Tech clutches in my 850T and SP1000 in the previous years. Quote from: jhem68 on March 31, 2022, 08:14:50 AM Jksymz75, your last comment sounds like you want someone to convince you to go with a RAM clutch set up. The SD-TEC clutch kit comes with the intermediate plate (as well as the 4 mm hub):, so that only leaves the pressure plate and cover plate. The surface that the friction plates contact are on the pressure plate, intermediate plate and ring gear/clutch cover plate. Quote from: Antietam Classic Cycle on March 30, 2022, 06:41:51 PM There is no surface on the flywheel itself to resurface, only splines that can wear.
I use a stack of six o-rings instead and will send you some for free (assuming that you're in the US). Guzzi used two conical rubber seals which I've had leak. I'd recommend replacing the clutch pushrod seal(s) as well. Probably best to replace the throw-out bearing and I find this double o-ring outer body helpful in preventing leaks:
The SD-TEC friction plates are slightly thicker than the originals, so you may need a slightly longer clutch pushrod or to just add an extra throw-out bearing thrust washer in order for it to release properly. I use an an abrasive pad in my angle die grinder to do that. Most often the pressure plate and cover plate need only the "glaze" removed from them.
There is no surface on the flywheel itself to resurface, only splines that can wear. I took my 2nd plate into a truck shop and the fellow that ran the brake and clutch shop machined down some friction material he had to theĬorrect 8mm width ( he looked at it like it was jewelry compared to what he worked on ) and it too now works a treat in my other goose. 4 or 5 variations later they apparently have cured it. They sent another and it lasted almost 800 kilometers before I had to pull it again. Nice and light with great throttle response, but the earlier ones were crap, plate was shot in only 500 kilometer ( yeah, 350 miles). My experience with the RAM clutch absolutely sucked. It and it's working fine with the 4mm deep spline and Stein Dense clutch plate kit. 25 years and over another 150k kilometers on To repair the flywheel grooves and machined the friction surface flat again. Luckily I had access to an amazing machinist and he made a broach By that time the flywheel had become quite grooved. BUT, as was mentioned, it sure grooved the flywheel ( as they had a smallerįriction surface). I too ran the Sureflex sintered bronze plates in my Le Mans 2 forĪlmost 100k kilometers and I really enjoyed it. The flywheel assembly was balanced at the time. My experience with the lightened flywheel ( by Charlie Rice) was an even smoother running bike and there was no negative effect on